Fashion has always been used as an object of activism and stood for codes that go far beyond aesthetics. Clothing isn't always just clothing; fashion and activism are intertwined. But with the rise of social media, consumers are asking brands for accountability as to what goes on behind the scenes. As brands engage in modern social and political movements (like Balenciaga's editorial for Spring/Summer 2020 mimicking election coverage), consumers are finding ways not just to send a message with their clothes, but also with their spending power.
“Fashion was and is always political because it is a material way to express power,” says fashion historian Einav Rabinovitch-Fox, Ph.D. She adds that this has been especially true for women, noting that in her field of expertise, it dates back to the 1850s. "Women's rights advocates took the issue of dress reform and the bloomer more specifically as part of their agenda to promote women's rights and equality. This placed a strong connection between fashion and appearance, and politics. For a long time, long after the bloomer was abandoned, the bloomer continued to be associated with feminism and the feminist struggle.”
Today, political activism can be achieved in other ways, too. The idea of buying from small, independent designers can be an active way for consumers to use their spending power to send a larger message.
Adaptive clothing is clothing designed around the needs and abilities of people with varying degrees of disability, including congenital disabilities, acquired disabilities (as the result of an injury, illness or accident) and temporary disabilities, as well as physical disabilities. The idea of adaptive clothing recognises that every one of us, irrespective of our age and body-type, has our own sense of style, so it offers trendy clothing that adapts to us. Currently, 15% of the world’s population is experiencing some form of disability. Around 2.1% of the population of India lives with some kind of disability.
Examples of adaptive clothing: Pants, shirts, dresses or skirts that open at the sides with magnetic closures instead of buttons. Shoes that allow the wearer to step into them without forcing them on. Pants cut higher in the back and lower in the front that are more comfortable for wheelchair users.
Mindy Scheier, the founder of Runway of Dreams, a fashion non-profit for people with disabilities, works with big brands in the fashion industry to come up with modifications to create adaptive clothing that mirrors mainstream fashion trends and meets the needs of the 1 billion people living with a disability. Big names like Tommy Hilfiger, Zappos, Target and more are getting in on the action and adjusting both their vision and products to include the disability community.
Expanding adaptive clothing from a “niche” market requires better representation of people with disabilities across the fashion industry; representation that goes beyond performative inclusivity.
ASOS first created a wheelchair-friendly jumpsuit back in 2018, and in April, was praised for showcasing a model with a hearing aid in an earring ad campaign.
Image Source: https://www.insider.com/asos-wheelchair-friendly-jumpsuit-2018-7
Tommy Hilfiger’s disability-friendly collection includes adaptive features like Velcro closures, magnetic buttons and adjustable hems, while Nike’s Go FlyEase shoe, released this past April, marks the first hands-free sneaker ever made.
Adaptive fashion not only applies to attire, but also to the buying experience. Conscientious labels need to ensure their stores are accessible, and can even use artificial intelligence on websites and apps so customers can virtually try on clothing before making a purchase.
Allowing neurodivergent people to access modern clothing does far more than simply expand their fashion options — it opens the door for greater inclusivity that bridges the gap between “accommodation” and universal acceptance.
Innovating adaptive clothing will not only profit companies but better society as a whole. A brand’s reputation will naturally begin to evolve as it begins to incorporate adaptive design into its apparel; people will become more accustomed to adaptive fashion, and those with disabilities will no longer have to feel excluded from something as basic as personal style because of their condition.
Indian labels that make adaptive clothes
6 DOTS by Parul Sachdeva
It specifically caters to those who are visually impaired. She combines tactile qualities with specific cuts and tailoring to create designs that are both sensible and wearable.
Image Source: https://www.dnaindia.com/lifestyle/report-forget-the-tags-feel-the-dots-2389277
Old is Gold
It caters to the needs of the elderly. They have also launched ‘Cocoon; a range of adaptive clothing for individuals with special needs.
Move Ability Clothing (MAC): Run by a couple, Murielle and Joe Ikareth, the company offers inclusive movement therapy initiatives as well as garments and accessories for the differently-abled.
Image Source: https://www.localsamosa.com/2021/12/03/5-homegrown-brands-that-offer-adaptive-clothing-for-seniors-and-the-disabled/
Zyenika
Designer and founder Soumita Basu makes clothes to order. She communicates with her clients and designs based on their specific needs. While most of her creations have been for women, she has also made clothes for men, as well as children with cerebral palsy, autism and other physical and mental disabilities.
Image Source: https://zyenika.com/adaptive-clothing-brings-choice-to-people-with-disabilities/
“Retailers can improve the online shopping experience for disabled customers by using a variety of images and videos to show the functionality of a garment,” says Monika Dugar, co-founder of London adaptive fashion brand Reset that was inspired by the needs of Dugar’s father, who has Parkinson’s disease.
Digital accessibility is crucial when it comes to online shopping. “It’s often very difficult to navigate a website, especially for those with neurogenerative diseases,” says Dugar. Managing colour contrast, describing images, captioning, simple keyboard navigation and using simple language can go a long way in uncomplicating online browsing and shopping, she says.
According to the Adaptive Clothing Market Analysis study published in 2018, the global inclusive fashion market is expected to be worth upwards of $390 billion in 2026.
And yet, adaptive fashion lines are few and far between across the world.
Good 👍
well written